COVERT X

“my latest experimental design project is a modernist marriage of fine jewellery and light tech.”

COVERT X is a custom-made finger ring with a secret, of course. One half of the ring holds a very unique natural diamond and the other provides a means of revealing its special hidden detail by illuminating it.

This project sees the materialisation of an idea that had been brewing for some time. The original concept was inspired by the miniaturization of LED components incorporating tiny copper induction coils, meaning LED lights could be operated without the need for wires connecting the LED to a power source, and without the need for batteries or switches. Perfectly suited to small-scale applications, such as jewellery.

After mentioning my idea to a gem dealer at an exhibition opening, they presented me with a fantastically willing client and their 1.48ct square cut diamond from Marange, Zimbabwe. This diamond contained an intriguing cross-shaped inclusion that was only clearly visible when illuminated sideways through the pavilion of the gem. This provided the perfect opportunity to design a set of rings that would realise my concept.

The result is a completely custom made, one of kind set of three rings: a diamond solitaire made in platinum; a hand-crafted black acrylic ring to house the LED; and a third ring in 18k rose gold and set with black diamonds, which can be worn in place of the LED ring when illumination is not desired.

The design process progressed through engaging dialogue between myself and my client, with multiple discussions regarding both technical and aesthetic details. The result is a somewhat brutalist, yet refined setting for the diamond, featuring open sides and a double band between which the interchangeable central rings can be positioned. This minimalist design is complimented by the LED ring, which features a stylised leaf-shaped block just big enough to conceal the LED component.

The rings make a bold statement when worn together, and all that is required in order to operate the LED/reveal the secret, is a wave of the hand over a custom made induction plate. As the diamond is illuminated, the diagonal cross is revealed. Echoing the shaped of the LED ring, the glossy black plate doubles as an elegant display panel when the ring is not being worn on the body.

Covert X diamond ring and induction panel display

COVERT X Illuminated Diamond Ring Set by Cinnamon Lee

Commissioned by Courtesy of the Artist, Sydney Australia, September 2024

Filmed by Archie Sartracom